Pantelleria: The Secret Island at the Gates of Sicily
In her article "So Close to Sicily, So Far From the Crowds," published on May 29, 2024, in The New York Times, Amy Tara Koch takes us on a journey to discover Pantelleria, a volcanic island situated between Sicily and Tunisia, far from the beaten path and tourist crowds. Known for its raw landscapes and ancient traditions, this unique island attracts those seeking a timeless refuge.
© Paolo Pellegrin
An Island Far From Stereotypes
Pantelleria, nicknamed “the island of the wind,” is a destination you either love or hate, as the author explains by quoting Sciascia Gambaccini, an Italian stylist who has had a vacation home on the island for 33 years. Unlike Capri or the Amalfi Coast, Pantelleria offers no luxury boutiques or sophisticated seaside resorts. The island proudly flaunts its lack of white sandy beaches, instead showcasing rugged cliffs and volcanic rocks where locals lounge before diving into turquoise waters.
This wild and unspoiled place offers a completely different experience. The narrow streets, dammusi (white lava stone houses), and arid landscapes reflect the authenticity that defines Pantelleria. Driving through its narrow roads in small cars like the Fiat Panda — a local favorite for its maneuverability — visitors pass through verdant valleys and barren plateaus, where cacti, caper bushes, and aromatic herbs grow freely.
A Rich Historical and Natural Heritage
Though small, covering just 32 square miles, the island has a rich history. Occupied since the Bronze Age, it preserves remnants of many civilizations, from the Carthaginians to the Romans and Byzantines. The author takes readers through time, describing historical sites like the Mursia burial monuments or the Roman thermal baths of Nikà, where today’s visitors can still enjoy warm waters carved into the stone.
Beyond its historical treasures, Pantelleria is a natural gem. Nearly 80% of the island is protected by a national park, offering hikers steep trails and panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea. For those seeking relaxation, natural hot springs, such as the famous Benikulà cave or the Specchio di Venere (Mirror of Venus), are must-see attractions. This aquamarine lake, nestled in a volcanic crater, invites visitors to coat themselves with therapeutic mud before dipping into its sulfurous waters.
A Unique Culinary Culture
Pantelleria is also a place where local culinary culture takes center stage. Known for its capers and passito wine, the island offers a unique gastronomic experience. The locals have mastered this arid land by planting vines and caper bushes in depressions in the soil, protected from the wind by stone walls. Passito wine, made from zibibbo grapes, is a local specialty, famous for its rich taste and sweetness. This meditative wine is savored slowly, often paired with traditional dishes like fried eggplant, caponata, or ricotta-filled ravioli.
Visiting vineyards, such as Donnafugata, is a must-do on the island. There, visitors can taste the wine in nature, surrounded by ancient olive trees and gardens fragrant with capers. It’s an immersive experience into the very essence of Pantelleria.
An Exclusive Refuge
Pantelleria isn’t an easy destination to reach, but that’s part of its charm. As the author explains, it requires a specific flight or ferry from Sicily to get there, and even once on the island, accessing hidden coves and bays often requires extra effort. But for those who appreciate tranquility and raw beauty, the island offers a complete escape, far from mass tourism.
As Giulia Pazienza Gelmetti, owner of the Sikelia hotel, concludes, Pantelleria “attracts a specific type of traveler” who can appreciate the island’s understated beauty. For these visitors, the effort is well worth it, as they leave with the sense of having discovered a well-kept secret, a true Eden between Africa and Italy.
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