Pantelleria: The Secret Italian Island Between Escape and Tradition
In her article "The Island Where Italians Go to Play (and Hide)," published on September 13, 2018, in The New York Times, Amy Tara Koch reveals Pantelleria, a volcanic island off the coast of Sicily, favored by insiders and untouched by mass tourism. Situated halfway between Sicily and Tunisia, this discreet destination captivates with its wild beauty and millennia-old history, far from the crowds of popular seaside resorts like Portofino or Sorrento.
© Diego Mayon
An Island of a Thousand Stories
Pantelleria, with its 32 square miles of cliffs and lava-carved coves, has been shaped by a rich and complex history. Since the Bronze Age, the island has seen many civilizations come and go, from the Carthaginians to the Romans and Arabs. Today, the dammusi—traditional whitewashed houses with domed roofs—bear witness to this past.
More recently, Pantelleria has attracted a new generation of visitors, including personalities like Giorgio Armani and Isabella Ferrari, who have found refuge here, far from paparazzi and flashy yachts. The island, home to around 7,500 residents, remains a haven of tranquility for those seeking simple luxury and full immersion in nature.
Where to Stay in Pantelleria
The article invites readers to explore several exclusive places to stay on the island. Among them is Sikelia, a collection of modernized dammusi offering spectacular views of the Mediterranean. This intimate retreat, located between Rekhale and Scauri, charms with its soothing ambiance and design touches inspired by Moorish architecture. Its restaurant, Themà, offers dishes with North African influences, such as fish couscous.
Another must-visit location is Tenuta Borgia, a 30-hectare property surrounded by fruit trees. Its rustic dammusi provide an authentic experience, featuring a ceramic pool and decor reminiscent of Luca Guadagnino’s film A Bigger Splash, which was filmed on the island.
Local Cuisine and Experiences
Pantelleria is also renowned for its gastronomy. At Osteria il Principe e il Pirata, diners can enjoy octopus couscous or light ricotta-filled fritters known as Pantelleria kisses. This family-run restaurant, located at Punta Karace, stands out for the authenticity of its dishes and its stunning sea view.
For wine enthusiasts, a visit to the Donnafugata estate is a must. This 168-acre vineyard is famous for its passito, a sweet, amber wine. Visitors can taste the island’s finest wines, paired with local specialties like mint and cheese ravioli.
Exploring Raw Nature
The island offers much more than culinary delights. The Sataria cave, a cove adorned with sea sponges, is reputed to have been the love nest of Ulysses and Calypso. The article also highlights the Specchio di Venere, a crater lake whose sulfurous waters, reaching up to 110 degrees, are renowned for their therapeutic properties. Finally, the Arco dell’Elefante, a natural arch plunging into the sea, remains one of the island’s most impressive geological treasures.
Often overlooked by the general public, Pantelleria is a hidden gem where history, nature, and discreet luxury converge. Amy Tara Koch’s New York Times article captures the essence of this preserved island, where every visitor—whether a lover of culture, nature, or gastronomy—finds their paradise. It’s an ideal destination for those seeking to escape the beaten path while enjoying an authentic Italian experience.
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